RV Fix-It

Search a problem, get checks in the right order.

Safety first: unplug shore power and switch off the battery before touching wiring or the converter. If you smell propane, get everyone outside and call 911. If you smell burning, stop and call a technician.
48 problems
I smell propane inside or think there is a leakPropane

Check in this order

  1. Get everyone out of the RV now, including pets. Do not stop to pack.
  2. Do not flip light switches, use appliances, light anything, or use your phone inside.
  3. Do not start the engine or a generator.
  4. Once you are well away, call 911 or the fire department.
  5. If you can reach the tank valve from outside without going back in, close it by turning it clockwise.
  6. Do not go back in until a professional says it is safe.
  7. Have the whole propane system checked and leak tested before you use it again.
Call a pro if: Always. Call 911 first. After it is cleared, a technician must find and fix the leak before any propane use.
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Propane alarm or carbon monoxide alarm is soundingPropane

Check in this order

  1. Treat every alarm as real. Get everyone out into fresh air right away.
  2. Do not turn anything on or off on the way out.
  3. Call 911 from outside. Tell them it is a propane or carbon monoxide alarm.
  4. Headache, dizziness, nausea, and sleepiness can be signs of carbon monoxide. Tell the responders if anyone feels these.
  5. Do not go back in until it is cleared.
  6. Later, test your alarms and replace them by the date on the back of each unit.
Call a pro if: Always. After it is cleared, have the furnace, water heater, fridge, and propane system checked before use.
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Pump runs but no water at faucetsWater pump

Check in this order

  1. Check the fresh water tank has water and the tank valve is open.
  2. Make sure the city water / tank selector is set to tank, not city.
  3. Clean the inlet strainer on the pump: shut the pump off, unscrew the screen, rinse it.
  4. Look for loose fittings on the intake side. Air getting in keeps the pump from priming.
  5. Open a faucet and let the pump run a minute to push air out.
Call a pro if: The pump is hot, runs dry, or the head looks cracked or leaking.
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Pump turns on and off with all faucets closedWater pump

Check in this order

  1. Check under sinks, behind the toilet and at the water heater for drips or wet spots.
  2. Test the toilet: a leaking valve can cause short pump bursts.
  3. Tighten pump fittings by hand or with a wrench, a quarter turn at a time.
  4. Check the check valve and the water heater bypass valves.
  5. If you have an accumulator tank, it may have lost air charge.
Call a pro if: You cannot find a leak and it keeps cycling. The pressure switch may be worn.
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Pump makes no sound, nothing happensWater pump

Check in this order

  1. Turn the pump switch on at the control panel.
  2. Check the house battery voltage. Below about 11.5 V, the pump may not start.
  3. Find the pump fuse in the fuse panel and check it.
  4. Look for loose or corroded wires at the pump and the battery.
  5. Check for 12 V at the pump wires with a multimeter while the switch is on.
Call a pro if: You have 12 V at the pump and it still does not run. The pump has probably failed.
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Pump is loud, buzzing, or rattlingWater pump

Check in this order

  1. Check that the pump is firmly mounted on its rubber feet.
  2. Look for hoses touching the floor or wall, which carry vibration.
  3. Run a faucet to remove air. Sputtering noise often means air in the lines.
  4. Check the water level in the tank. Running low makes the pump loud.
Call a pro if: The noise is grinding or squealing. Motor bearings may be failing.
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Battery is not charging on shore powerConverter

Check in this order

  1. Confirm the pedestal has power and its breaker is on. Reset the pedestal GFCI if it has one.
  2. Check the RV main breaker and the breaker for the converter.
  3. Look at the converter DC fuse or breaker and replace or reset it.
  4. Measure battery voltage at the battery. On shore power it should read about 13.2 to 14.4 V.
  5. If voltage stays at 12.5 V or less while plugged in, the converter is not charging.
Call a pro if: AC power is good and the DC output stays low. The converter likely needs replacing.
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12V lights and fans dim or turn off on shore powerConverter

Check in this order

  1. Check the battery disconnect switch is on.
  2. Check the DC fuses at the converter and in the main fuse panel.
  3. Measure DC voltage at the converter output. It should read about 13.6 V.
  4. Clean and tighten battery terminals. Corrosion causes voltage drops.
  5. Check that the converter fan runs when it should.
Call a pro if: Output is under 12 V while plugged in. The converter has probably failed.
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Converter fan runs loud or all the timeConverter

Check in this order

  1. A low battery makes the converter work hard. Let it charge and see if the fan slows down.
  2. Clear dust, leaves, and stored items away from the vents.
  3. Check that the area has airflow and is not packed with gear.
  4. If the battery is full and the fan still runs hard, the charge sensor or fan may be failing.
Call a pro if: The unit is very hot to the touch or you smell burning. Unplug and have it checked.
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Converter buzzes or humsConverter

Check in this order

  1. Some hum is normal under load, especially when charging.
  2. Check that the converter is mounted securely and not touching loose panels.
  3. Reduce load by turning off big 12V items and see if the sound changes.
  4. Check for loose AC wires at the converter, with shore power off.
Call a pro if: The buzzing is new, loud, or comes with heat or a burnt smell.
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No hot water on electric modeWater heater

Check in this order

  1. Make sure the heater tank is full of water before turning it on. Never run it empty.
  2. Check the water heater breaker and switch.
  3. Press the red high-limit reset button behind the access panel, with power off first.
  4. Check that the electric element switch is set to electric.
Call a pro if: The element does not heat after reset. The element or thermostat may be bad.
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Water heater will not light on propaneWater heater

Check in this order

  1. Check that the propane tank has gas and the tank valve is open.
  2. Make sure the 12V battery has enough power. The ignition needs it.
  3. Turn the heater switch off and on to retry.
  4. Check the burner tube for spider webs or debris.
  5. Check the heater exterior vent for blockages.
Call a pro if: You smell propane, or it still will not light. Shut off the gas and call a technician.
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Fridge is not coolingFridge

Check in this order

  1. Level the RV. Absorption fridges need to be close to level.
  2. Check the power source: shore power, propane, or 12V, and that the selector matches.
  3. Make sure the vent behind the fridge is clear.
  4. Do not overload the fridge and keep the door closed after loading.
  5. Precool the fridge for 12 to 24 hours before a trip.
Call a pro if: It does not cool after a full day when level. The cooling unit may have failed.
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Interior lights do not workLights

Check in this order

  1. Check that the battery disconnect switch is on.
  2. Measure the house battery. Below about 11.5 V, lights may dim or fail.
  3. Check the 12V fuses in the main fuse panel and replace any blown fuse with the same amp rating.
  4. Try a known good bulb, or test another light on the same circuit.
  5. Check the wall switch and the wires behind the fixture for loose connections.
Call a pro if: A fuse keeps blowing. That points to a short in the wiring.
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Running lights, brake lights, or turn signals do not workLights

Check in this order

  1. Connect the trailer to the tow vehicle and test every light: running, brake, left, right.
  2. Check bulbs or LED lights and their sockets for corrosion.
  3. Check the tow vehicle fuses for the trailer lights.
  4. Clean the plug on the trailer and the tow vehicle with electrical contact cleaner.
  5. Check the ground wire (white) at the trailer frame. Most light problems come from a bad ground.
Call a pro if: Several lights fail at once and cleaning and grounds did not help. There may be a break in the harness.
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7-way plug: lights, brakes, or charging not working7-way

Check in this order

  1. Inspect the plug on both sides for bent pins, green corrosion, or melted plastic.
  2. Clean the pins and sockets with contact cleaner and a small brush.
  3. Use a 7-way tester on the tow vehicle plug to see which pin has no signal.
  4. Check the tow vehicle fuses for brake lights, trailer power, and the 12V charge line.
  5. Check the ground connection at the plug and at the trailer frame.
  6. If trailer brakes do not work, check the brake controller settings and the blue wire.
Call a pro if: The tester shows no signal on any pin, or the plug wiring is damaged. The tow vehicle wiring may need repair.
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Slide-out will not move in or outSlide-out

Check in this order

  1. Check the house battery. Slide-outs need strong voltage, ideally 12 V or higher.
  2. Park on level ground and make sure the RV is leveled and the jacks are set as the manual says.
  3. Check the slide-out fuse or breaker.
  4. Look for objects blocking the slide path, such as furniture, bedding, or a trash can.
  5. Try the switch again. Hold it until the motor runs and listen for a click or hum.
  6. Check the manual for how to use the manual override.
Call a pro if: The slide is stuck partway, crooked, or makes grinding noises. Do not force it, because it can damage the room.
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Awning will not open or closeAwning

Check in this order

  1. Check that the awning switch is on and the RV has power.
  2. Check the awning fuse or breaker.
  3. Look for travel locks or latches that hold the arms in place, and release them.
  4. Check for debris or a bent arm.
  5. Check the manual for how to use the manual crank or override.
Call a pro if: The awning is bent, torn, or stuck out in wind. Retract it if you can and call a technician.
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Furnace will not turn onFurnace

Check in this order

  1. Set the thermostat to heat and at least 5 degrees above room temperature.
  2. Check the house battery. The fan and ignition need strong 12 V, and a low battery is the most common cause.
  3. Check the furnace fuse or breaker in the fuse panel.
  4. Make sure the propane tank valve is open and the tank has gas. Try the stove to confirm gas is flowing.
  5. Check the outside furnace vents for snow, leaves, or insect nests.
Call a pro if: You have good battery power and propane, and the furnace still shows no sign of life. The board or thermostat may have failed.
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Furnace fan runs but there is no heatFurnace

Check in this order

  1. Listen for clicking. That is the igniter trying to light the burner.
  2. Turn the thermostat off for one minute, then back on to reset a lockout. Try up to three times, then stop.
  3. If you just changed the propane tank, air may be in the lines. Run a stove burner until the flame is steady, then try the furnace again.
  4. Check that the outside intake and exhaust vents are clear.
  5. Check the house battery. Low voltage can stop the igniter.
Call a pro if: It keeps locking out, the flame is yellow or smoky, or you smell gas. Turn off the furnace and the propane at the tank.
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Furnace turns on and off too oftenFurnace

Check in this order

  1. Open all heat registers and clear furniture and bedding from vents and return air.
  2. Check ducts under the RV for kinks, crushed spots, or pulled-off hoses.
  3. Check the outside vents for blockage.
  4. Check the house battery. Low voltage makes the furnace shut down.
  5. Look at the thermostat location for drafts or heat from a nearby appliance.
Call a pro if: It still short cycles after airflow is clear. A limit switch or sail switch may be failing.
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Furnace is loud or smells oddFurnace

Check in this order

  1. A light dust smell for a few minutes is normal the first time you use the furnace each season.
  2. Check that the furnace is mounted tightly and the duct is not touching the floor or walls.
  3. Look and listen for something in the blower, like debris or a loose screw.
  4. Turn the furnace off if the noise is grinding, squealing, or banging.
  5. If you smell gas, treat it as a propane leak and see the propane problem above.
Call a pro if: The smell is strong or does not fade, you see soot, or the noise is grinding. Do not run the furnace until it is checked.
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Air conditioner will not turn onAC

Check in this order

  1. Check that the thermostat is set to cool and the temperature is below the room temperature. Replace thermostat batteries if it has them.
  2. Check the AC breaker in the RV panel and the main breaker. Reset by turning fully off, then on.
  3. Check the pedestal breaker and any GFCI at the park pole.
  4. Check that the shore power or generator is on and the RV has 120 V. Other outlets should work.
  5. Wait 2 to 3 minutes after a power loss. Many units delay the compressor on restart.
Call a pro if: The breaker trips right away, the unit hums but the fan does not turn, or you have 120 V and nothing happens.
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AC runs but does not coolAC

Check in this order

  1. Clean or replace the air filter. A clogged filter is the most common cause.
  2. Check for ice on the coil or lines inside. If you see ice, turn the AC off and let it thaw for a few hours.
  3. Close doors, windows, vents, and shades on the sunny side.
  4. Check that the roof unit fan runs and the fins are not blocked by leaves or debris.
  5. Set the fan to high and the thermostat low, and see if air from the vents gets cold within 10 to 15 minutes.
Call a pro if: The fan runs but the compressor does not, the air stays warm after the filter and ice are handled, or you hear clicking or humming. A capacitor or compressor may be bad.
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AC trips the breaker or will not run on the generatorAC

Check in this order

  1. Turn off other large loads: water heater electric element, microwave, hair dryer, and space heater.
  2. Start the AC last. Let the compressor start before adding other loads.
  3. Check the generator size. Many RV air conditioners need about 3,000 watts or more to start.
  4. Try another park site or pedestal if you are on shore power. Low voltage makes the AC work harder.
  5. Wait 2 to 3 minutes between off and on.
Call a pro if: It trips with nothing else running, or the breaker feels hot. A failing capacitor or compressor can cause this. A soft start device may help.
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AC drips water inside or freezes upAC

Check in this order

  1. Turn the AC off and let any ice thaw fully.
  2. Clean or replace the air filter.
  3. Open all vents and clear blocked return air.
  4. Check that the RV is level. Water can run into the cabin when it is not.
  5. Check the ceiling drip area and the roof unit seal. Dripping from the vents can be normal humidity condensation.
Call a pro if: Water keeps dripping after the filter is clean and airflow is open, or you see a stain on the ceiling. The roof seal or drain may need work.
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120V outlets do not workElectrical

Check in this order

  1. Find the GFCI outlets. They are often in the bathroom, kitchen, and outside. Press RESET on each.
  2. Check the breakers in the RV panel. Switch any that are tripped fully off, then on.
  3. Check the pedestal breaker and plug.
  4. Test another outlet with a lamp or an outlet tester.
  5. Check the shore power cord, adapter, and surge protector for lights or error codes.
Call a pro if: The GFCI trips again right away, a breaker will not stay on, or there is any burning smell or warm outlet.
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Breaker keeps trippingElectrical

Check in this order

  1. Unplug everything from the circuit that trips and reset the breaker.
  2. Plug items back in one at a time to find the one that causes it.
  3. Add up loads. A 30 amp RV can only run about two big loads at once, like AC and microwave.
  4. Check for moisture around outlets, plugs, and cords.
  5. If the breaker trips with nothing plugged in, leave it off and do not keep resetting it.
Call a pro if: It trips with nothing plugged in, the breaker feels hot, or you smell burning. That can point to a short or a bad breaker.
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Pedestal has power but the RV does notElectrical

Check in this order

  1. Turn the RV main breaker off, then plug in, then turn the pedestal breaker on, then the RV main breaker on.
  2. Check the plug and cord for damage, burn marks, or bent prongs.
  3. Check that the adapter matches the pedestal, such as 30 amp to 50 amp.
  4. Check the surge protector or energy management system. Read its display or lights.
  5. Try another pedestal if the park has one.
  6. If you have a generator, make sure the transfer switch is on shore power.
Call a pro if: The plug or outlet is melted or discolored, or the problem follows you to a second pedestal. The transfer switch or RV wiring may be at fault.
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Surge protector shows a fault or low voltageElectrical

Check in this order

  1. Read the code on the display. Common faults are low voltage, high voltage, open ground, and reverse polarity.
  2. Do not bypass the protector or plug in if it shows open ground or reverse polarity. Move to another site.
  3. For low voltage, a reading under about 104 V can damage the AC. Turn off the AC and large loads.
  4. Check for loose plugs and corrosion on the plug or pedestal outlet.
  5. Report a bad pedestal to the park office.
Call a pro if: The fault shows at more than one site, or you suspect the RV wiring. A technician can check the power system.
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Quick generator check before a tripGenerator

Check in this order

  1. Check the oil level when the engine is off and level. Top off with the oil type in the manual.
  2. Check the fuel level. Many built-in generators will not run below about one quarter tank.
  3. Check that the exhaust outlet and intake are clear of debris, nests, and bags.
  4. Start it and let it warm up for a few minutes with no load.
  5. Turn on a few loads, like the AC or a heater, and run it for 30 minutes under load.
  6. Check that the voltage at an outlet reads about 120 V and that the engine runs smoothly.
Call a pro if: The oil is low and keeps dropping, it will not run under load, or the voltage is far from 120 V.
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Generator will not startGenerator

Check in this order

  1. Check the fuel level. Built-in units may need more than a quarter tank to start.
  2. Check the oil level. A low oil sensor will stop the engine from starting.
  3. Check the house or start battery voltage. A weak battery is the most common cause.
  4. Hold the start switch for the time in the manual. Use the prime switch first if your unit has one.
  5. Check the breaker on the generator and any fuse at the control panel.
  6. For a portable generator, check that the fuel valve is on, the choke is set, and the fuel is fresh.
Call a pro if: It cranks but will not fire after fuel, oil, and battery are checked, or it clicks and nothing turns. The fuel system or starter may need work.
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Generator starts then shuts off, surges, or runs roughGenerator

Check in this order

  1. Check the oil level. A low oil sensor can shut it off after it starts.
  2. Turn off large loads and see if it holds. Add loads one at a time.
  3. Check the air filter and clean or replace it.
  4. Check the fuel filter and the fuel age. Old fuel is a common cause.
  5. Check that the exhaust and spark arrestor are not blocked.
Call a pro if: It keeps dying or surging with all loads off. The carburetor, fuel pump, or governor may need service.
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Generator runs but there is no power in the RVGenerator

Check in this order

  1. Check the generator breaker and reset it by switching it fully off, then on.
  2. Check the RV main breaker and the branch breakers.
  3. Reset GFCI outlets.
  4. Check that the transfer switch is set to generator and the shore power cord is not feeding back.
  5. Measure the voltage at an outlet. It should be about 120 V.
Call a pro if: The generator runs with good output at its own outlet but the RV has none, which points to the transfer switch or RV wiring.
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Exhaust smell or carbon monoxide worriesGenerator

Check in this order

  1. Run the generator only outdoors or on its own exhaust outlet, with the exhaust clear and pointing away from windows and doors.
  2. Never run a portable generator inside the RV, an attached garage, or near open windows.
  3. Make sure your carbon monoxide alarm works and has fresh batteries.
  4. If the alarm sounds, or anyone feels headache, dizziness, or nausea, get everyone into fresh air and call 911.
  5. Check the exhaust system for rust, holes, or loose clamps.
Call a pro if: Any time you smell exhaust inside, the alarm sounds, or you see damage to the exhaust. Stop using the generator until it is checked.
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Entry step will not extend or retractSteps

Check in this order

  1. Check the step fuse or breaker in the fuse panel.
  2. Check the house battery. Weak voltage can stop the motor.
  3. Find the step override switch, usually near the door, and set it to the out position to test. Return it to auto when done.
  4. Check that the door switch or step switch is working. The step should move when the door opens and closes.
  5. Look for mud, ice, sticks, or debris in the step linkage and pivots.
  6. Check the wires and plug at the step motor for corrosion or damage.
Call a pro if: The step has power and still does not move, or the linkage is bent. The motor or control may need replacing.
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Entry step is slow, noisy, or squeaksSteps

Check in this order

  1. Clean dirt and grit from the linkage and pivot points.
  2. Lubricate the pivots with the type of lubricant the step maker recommends. A dry or silicone lube is often better than oil, which attracts dirt.
  3. Check that the mounting bolts are tight.
  4. Check the house battery. Low voltage makes the motor slow.
  5. Look for a bent arm or a worn bushing.
Call a pro if: The step grinds, binds, or catches. The motor or linkage may be wearing out.
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Entry step stays out or will not stay inSteps

Check in this order

  1. Make sure the step switch is set to auto and not to stay out.
  2. Check that the door switch is not stuck or dirty.
  3. Close the door fully. Some steps will not retract with the door open.
  4. If the step has a warning alarm, check that the RV is in park with the brake set.
  5. Retract the step manually or with the switch before you drive.
Call a pro if: The step keeps staying out or the alarm keeps sounding. A relay or switch may be bad. Do not drive with the step out.
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Entry step feels loose, bent, or wobblySteps

Check in this order

  1. Do not use a step that is bent, cracked, or wobbling.
  2. Check the mounting bolts and tighten them.
  3. Look at the arms and treads for bends, cracks, or rust.
  4. Check the weight limit in the manual.
  5. Check that nothing is stuck in the linkage.
Call a pro if: The step is bent or cracked, or bolts keep coming loose. Replace it before use.
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Black tank reads full when it is notBlack tank

Check in this order

  1. Dump the tank at a dump station.
  2. Fill the tank about one third with water through the toilet.
  3. Add a tank cleaner or treatment as the label says.
  4. Drive a short distance if you can so the water sloshes and cleans the sensors, then dump again.
  5. Use a tank rinser or flush port to rinse the inside walls if your RV has one.
  6. Check the monitor panel battery power. A weak battery can give wrong readings.
Call a pro if: The sensors still read wrong after repeated cleaning. The probes may need replacing.
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Black tank will not drain or drains slowlyBlack tank

Check in this order

  1. Make sure the black tank valve handle is fully open and not stuck.
  2. Check the sewer hose for kinks, low spots, and loose connections. Support it so it slopes down.
  3. Connect the hose and open the black valve only when the tank is at least two thirds full, so the flow pushes solids out.
  4. Close the black valve and flush with the tank rinser or fill water in the toilet, then drain again.
  5. Do not leave the black valve open while hooked up. Liquid runs out and solids pile up.
Call a pro if: The tank still will not drain after flushing, or the valve will not open or close. A hard clog or a bad valve may need service.
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Black tank smell inside or toilet backs upBlack tank

Check in this order

  1. Keep a little water in the toilet bowl. A dry seal lets odor in.
  2. Check the roof vent pipe for a nest, debris, or a cap that is blocked.
  3. Use a black tank treatment and keep the tank from sitting full or dry.
  4. If the toilet bubbles or backs up, stop using it. The tank may be full or the vent blocked.
  5. Check the toilet seal at the floor for leaks.
Call a pro if: The smell stays after cleaning, or the toilet backs up when the tank is not full. A crack or a vent clog may need a technician.
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Gray tank drains slowly or sinks back upGray tank

Check in this order

  1. Make sure the gray tank is not full.
  2. Open the gray valve fully and check the sewer hose for kinks.
  3. Pour hot water and a drain-safe cleaner down the sink, as the label allows. Avoid harsh drain chemicals that can harm RV plumbing.
  4. Clean the sink and shower drain strainers.
  5. Run water for a while to flush the pipes when the tank is empty.
Call a pro if: The drain stays slow after the tank is empty and hose is clear. The line or the vent may be clogged.
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Gray tank smell or drain odorGray tank

Check in this order

  1. Run water down each sink and shower for 30 seconds to refill the traps.
  2. Clean the drain with soap and hot water.
  3. Dump the tank and rinse. A tank sitting full with food and soap smells.
  4. Check that the roof plumbing vent is open.
  5. Use a gray tank deodorizer if the label allows.
Call a pro if: The smell continues after the traps are filled and the tank is cleaned. There may be a leak or a bad vent.
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Gray tank reading is wrongGray tank

Check in this order

  1. Dump and rinse the tank with plenty of water.
  2. Add dish soap or a degreaser and some water, drive or shake the RV, then dump again.
  3. Check the monitor panel power.
  4. Wipe the monitor contacts if they are dirty.
  5. Pay attention to how many days you have used the tank, as a guide.
Call a pro if: The reading is still wrong after cleaning. The sensor probes may need replacement.
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Fresh water smells or tastes badFresh tank

Check in this order

  1. Drain the fresh water tank and water lines.
  2. Mix household bleach with water as your manual says. A common mix is about 1/4 cup of plain unscented bleach per 15 gallons of tank capacity.
  3. Pour it into the tank, fill with fresh water, and run each faucet until you smell bleach.
  4. Let it sit for several hours, then drain and rinse well until the smell is gone.
  5. Replace or clean any water filters, and use a drinking water hose to fill.
Call a pro if: The taste or smell stays after sanitizing. The tank, lines, or water heater tank may need cleaning or replacing.
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Fresh water tank level reads wrongFresh tank

Check in this order

  1. Check the monitor panel power and the battery.
  2. Fill the tank slowly and watch the readings as it fills.
  3. Clean the monitor contacts and wipe sensor probes if they are accessible.
  4. Check the wiring to the tank sensors for loose or corroded connections.
  5. Use a flashlight or a fill meter to check the level by eye.
Call a pro if: Readings stay off after cleaning. The sensors may need replacing.
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Fresh water tank leaks or will not fillFresh tank

Check in this order

  1. Close the fresh tank low point drain valve and the water heater drain plug.
  2. Check the fill cap and its seal.
  3. Look for drips at the tank fittings, hoses, and clamps underneath.
  4. Check the tank vent line for blockage if the tank overflows or fills slowly.
  5. Fill the tank and watch for wet spots under the RV.
Call a pro if: You see a crack in the tank or leaks at the tank body. The tank may need repair or replacement.
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Need a technician?

Utah Valley RV Services

$165 per hour

Mon to Fri, 9 AM to 5 PM

Rush and weekend service is available for an extra fee.

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Email utahvalleyrvservices@gmail.com

801-448-5090

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